Gold Vermeil vs Gold Filled: Differences in Longevity and Jewelry Care

When buying gold vermeil or gold filled jewelry, durability and gold value often come to mind. But one important aspect is often overlooked—how to care for it. 

Understanding proper care for demi-fine affordable jewelry not only helps you decide which is right for you, but also plays a big role in making them last as long as promised. 

In this article, we’ll break down how to best care for them given their unique properties.

Jump to:

• Differences between Gold vermeil vs Gold filled
• Gold vermeil jewelry care
• Gold filled jewelry care
• Longevity of Gold vermeil vs gold filled
• Which is better between gold filled and gold vermeil

What is the difference between gold vermeil vs gold filled?

Gold vermeil and gold filled are similar in that they are both demi-fine jewelry that involves a covering of gold over a base metal. Beyond that, they are quite different in composition and manufacturing process.

Composition

Gold vermeil consists of a sterling silver base coated with a thin layer of gold through electroplating. 

Gold filled jewelry consists (usually) of a brass base mechanically bonded with a thicker layer of gold. The base metal used in gold filled jewelry can also be silver, steel or copper, but typically brass is used. 

 

Gold Content

To be considered gold vermeil in the US, the gold layer has to be at least 2.5 microns thick. Elsewhere, it can range from 0.5 to 3 microns. The gold purity needs to be a minimum of 10K, though 14K and 18K are most common.

To be considered gold filled in the US, the outer gold layer needs to be a minimum of 5% of the total weight (which commonly equates to 4.3 microns), though it can vary between 3 to 5 microns of coverage. The gold purity needs to be a minimum of 10K, though 12K and 14K are most common. 

 

Manufacturing Process

To manufacture gold vermeil, the outer gold layer is electroplated on to a sterling silver (925) core. In this process, a crafted silver core is immersed in a solution of gold ions, where electrical currents deposit thin, even layers of gold covering. 

To manufacture gold filled, the outer gold layer is mechanically bonded to a base metal. In this process, a layer of solid gold is molecularly fused to the base metal via intense heat and pressure, creating a strong, permanent bond. This means the gold will not peel, flake or fall off.

Now that the basics are out of the way, let’s get into how jewelry care should be different based on their unique properties.

Gold Vermeil Jewelry Care

When taken care of, gold vermeil (made to at least US legal requirements), should last a minimum of 1 year before the base metal starts to show. 

 

Some gold vermeil characterics to keep in mind

• Layer of gold is pretty thin (2.5 microns, or 0.0025mm)
• Bond strength of the electroplated gold is not as sturdy as a mechanical bond
• Base metal (silver) is a noticeably different color to the outer, so any gaps can be apparent
• Can be made to have more intricate designs, but this also affects its ability to be cleaned thoroughly in nooks and crannies
• Can go through a re-plating process to restore the original look of the gold layer

 

Some key jewelry care tips for gold vermeil jewelry

• Avoid moisture and chemicals – Keep it away from water, lotions, perfumes, and household cleaners. The gold layer is thin and likely to corrode faster with exposure to excessive moisture and chemicals.
• Remove before activities – Take off your jewelry before showering, swimming, washing dishes, exercising, or sleeping to minimize wear. The thin gold layer and electroplated finish makes it more vulnerable to chemicals and friction in these situations.
• Clean quickly and gently – When exposed to contaminating and tarnish-inducing materials, clean as soon as possible. Use a soft cloth or mild soap with water to wipe away dirt. Avoid abrasive materials that could wear down the gold layer, including toothbrushes.
• Avoid ultrasonic cleaners – Despite their gentle cleaning action, ultrasonic cleaners are not recommended for gold vermeil jewelry. The electroplated gold layer is not permanently bonded and can gradually weaken or wear away under the vibrations.
• Polish with care – Use a gentle, non-abrasive jewelry cloth to restore shine without stripping the gold layer. Avoid polishing compounds or rough materials. A few light strokes are enough to maintain its luster without compromising the electroplated finish.

 

To clean gold vermeil jewelry, use gentle cleaning methods

1. Cover your jewelry with 2-4 pumps with a naturally-derived jewelry foam.
2. Gently rub the foam over jewelry with clean fingers
3. Rinse off in clean water
4. Dry off gently with a soft dry cloth.

Check out: Jewelry Cleansing Foam Kit >

Or,

1. Mix together warm water and dish soap. Use 2 drops of soap to every 100ml (approximately 3.3oz) of water. 
2. Soak jewelry for 3 minutes while gently rubbing with clean fingers.
3. Finish off by rinsing off in clean water.
4. Dry off gently with a soft dry cloth.

The key here is gentle, and often. 

Gold vermeil, given its thin layer of gold and fragile bonding method, is more susceptible to erosion from friction, or leaving contaminants on jewelry for too long. 

So, to keep your gold vermeil jewelry lasting for as long as advertised, clean frequently when exposed to contaminants, and when you do clean, be sure to clean as gently as you can.

 

Gold Filled Jewelry Care

When taken care of, gold filled (made to at least US legal requirements, not Brazilian gold filled), should last a minimum of 3 years before the base metal starts to show. With proper care and considerate wear, gold filled jewelry can even last a lifetime.

 

Some gold filled characterics to keep in mind:

• Layer of gold is the thickest of demi-fine jewelry, usually between 3-5 microns
• Bond strength is strong as mechanical bonding is permanent, so it will not peel, flake or fall off
• Base metal (usually copper) is closer in tone to gold and makes wear less noticeable
• Exposed copper over time may cause allergic reactions in some people
• Can withstand more exposure to moisture and friction due to thicker layer of gold and bonding method
• Has limitations for delicate details and complex designs due to bonding method
• Cannot be re-plated but naturally maintains its finish longer

 

Some key jewelry care tips for gold filled jewelry

• Be wary of moisture - Water exposure, like showers or a beach swim, is generally ok, but not ideal, and should be followed with a quick clean, like with a jewelry wipe.
• Avoid chemicals – Keep it away from lotions, perfumes, and household cleaners. Though thicker than gold vermeil, gold filled jewelry can still react to these components that cause tarnish over time.
• Remove before harsh activities – Once gold-filled jewelry is scratched or chipped, it cannot be re-plated or filled to recover the original design. It’s best therefore to take it off during abrasive activities like rock climbing or using steel wool, which can scratch through the gold layer, ruin the design and expose the base brass. 
• Ultrasonic jewelry cleaners are your best friend - Thanks to its thicker gold layer and strong bond, gold filled jewelry can handle ultrasonic cleaning, making deep cleaning quick and easy. Bonus tip: Find a sonic cleaner made for jewelry with higher frequencies.
• Clean often – As with all jewelry, no matter how fine, cleaning after exposure to tarnish-inducing contaminants is of utmost importance. Clean frequently with something convenient like jewelry wipes until your next ultrasonic clean.
• Polish as needed – A soft, non-abrasive jewelry cloth helps maintain its luster. Avoid harsh polishing compounds, as excessive use may wear down the surface over time.

 

How to clean gold filled jewelry

Thanks to its durability, gold-filled jewelry can be cleaned in a wide variety of ways, from DIY methods to semi-professional cleaning. Here’s the recommended method for gold-filled jewelry.

1. Check for loose stones and whether or not they are compatible with ultrasonic cleaners.
2. Add enough water in the ultrasonic cleaner to submerge jewelry.
3. Lather your jewelry with dish soap. Use fingers to dab soap into areas where there is more potential for buildup, like in intricate design and claws.
4. Turn the ultrasonic cleaner on and slide in your jewelry. Watch the dust, grime and germs swirl away!
5. Remove your jewelry from the solution once it’s finished a cleaning cycle and dry it off with a soft cloth.

All in all, gold filled is quite durable and perfect for an everyday, don’t-really-need-to-take-off kind of wear. The big thing that requires caution is scratches and chips, as they are almost always irrecoverable.

With proper care, mindful wear and appropriate storage, you can almost treat it as a solid gold ring - and enjoy it at a fraction of the cost!

 

Related: Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner: a Guide, a How To and Best Practices.

Longevity of Gold vermeil vs Gold filled, compared

When it comes to longevity, gold filled jewelry outlasts gold vermeil due to its thicker, mechanically bonded gold layer. With proper care, it can maintain its appearance for decades before any base metal begins to show.

Gold vermeil, on the other hand, has a thinner electroplated gold layer, making it more susceptible to gradual fading and exposure-related wear. When well cared for, it should last at least a year before showing signs of wear.

With mindful care, both can maintain their beauty, but gold filled jewelry is the more durable option for everyday wear.

Which is better, gold vermeil or gold filled?

At the end of the day, it’s what you value from the jewelry piece that matters. Here are some questions that are important to consider:

1. What price am I willing to pay for the metals?
2. How much do I value the design? 
3. Do I value the ability to restore the design?
4. How much effort am I willing to dedicate to jewelry care?
5. Does its longevity matter to me?

To help you decide, here is an overlapped radar chart for gold filled vs gold vermeil with the above key consideration points.